This is actually a very dicey topic to talk about. And for someone like me who learnt, studied and practiced both Freehand cutting and Pattern drafting, here’s what I think…
First what is Free hand cutting?
Freehand cutting is all about marking your measurements directly onto fabric, using simple tools, and developing an understanding of how clothes come together and sit on the contours of the body This means that if you want to make an A line dress for example, you’ll need to mark in your measurements straight up on the fabric, draw in the shape of the A line directly on the fabric before you then cut it out.
Now, what is Pattern drafting?
Pattern drafting is the process of creating a pattern by taking measurements from a person, form, or model, in order to then create a foundation which is a pattern used as the basis for the design. It is the process of using measurements taken from specific parts of your body to create basic paper templates that you can then use for other designs later. So if you want to make an A line dress in pattern drafting for example, you must first have your basic dress block which you will then modify to create your A line dress on paper before you then place the paper on your fabric to cut it out.
Now, before we move on to the pros and cons or the advantages and disadvantages of both methods, I’m going to start with a short story.
When I first started my journey in fashion designing, I started with free hand cutting. Because I honestly didn’t know any better. After my training, I realized I could only make some basic outfits and anything more complex was usually too difficult for me to attempt.
In fact, anything they didn’t specifically teach me during my training, I definitely wouldn’t be able to make it. I can remember when off shoulder dresses were the rave of town in 2016, I went through a lot of mental stress trying to make one for myself. All because it wasn’t what I was taught during my training.
Now, How did I discover pattern drafting?
I discovered pattern drafting through a colleague of mine during my NYSC days as a junior high school teacher. Knowing I could sew, she naturally asked me to come help teach her home economics class on sewing. Because it wasn’t her forte.
Now as the badass tailor / designer that I thought I was, I opened the class textbook and met with disgrace. Because I was so confused and didn’t understand head or tail of what I was seeing in the textbook. And that’s how I discovered there was a whole other world from what I knew, called Pattern drafting.
And ever since I went to fashion school and learnt pattern drafting, I haven’t looked back on free hand cutting to this day. Now let’s move to the advantages and disadvantages of both methods so you can also make your own decisions.
Advantages of Free hand cutting
- Free hand cutting is super fast because you don’t need to bother yourself about drawing anything on paper before cutting. Everything you have to do is drawn straight on your fabric and then cut out. Which makes the entire sewing process less time consuming.
- Free hand cutting doesn’t really require you having lots of tools before you can begin your cutting process. All you’ll need for working is literally a tailor’s chalk, your tape measure, scissors and maybe a long wooden ruler. Which makes this method of cutting less expensive. Unlike with pattern drafting where you’ll need your pattern paper, French curve, tracing wheel, ruler, pencil and lots more.
Disadvantages of Free hand cutting
- Free hand cutting encourages fabric wastage because it is not economical. Your cutting process would involve adding more allowances than you need to your designs before cutting them out.
- With Free hand cutting, you don’t really have the luxury of making adjustments. Because once you draw and cut your design from your fabric, that’s really the end. If the design doesn’t come out the way you expect, you have to sew it that way or trash it out. Either way, you’ll feel a sense of loss because you just wasted your fabric.
- In free hand cutting, you can’t reuse your design templates for someone else. Because once you cut your fabric out, you have to sew it straight up. So there is really no way you can keep it for later.
- With Free hand cutting, you will always have to start from scratch. Unlike with pattern drafting where you can get your pre-made basic block template and modify them into whatever new design you want to make.
- Free hand cutting is not universal but pattern drafting is. Because the industry recognized standard for making clothes all over the world is through pattern drafting or draping.
Advantages of Pattern drafting
- Pattern drafting is economical because it reduces fabric wastage. Your patterns don’t require lots of seam allowances. In fact, the highest measurement I’ve ever used when drafting patterns is 1 inch.
- With pattern drafting, it’s easy to grow, build up your knowledge and become more skilled. Because there are certified fashion textbooks from professionals you can study on your own. And if taking online courses is more your thing, you can literally learn pattern drafting by taking my online course here or anywhere in the world. Because pattern drafting is universal.
- In pattern drafting, if you use patterns drafted to your actual measurements ( and not commercial patterns ), you will always get a perfect fit after sewing.
- With pattern drafting, you can readjust your patterns as many times as you want if the design you’re going for is not coming out how you want it yet.
- In pattern drafting, you can reuse your patterns as many times as you like as long as the paper doesn’t get damaged. And if you’re looking to be a ready to wear designer, it works even better for you. Because all you need to do is to draft your patterns in the body sizes you want and then reuse them as many times as you need them. Which means you don’t always have to start from scratch.
- Pattern drafting encourages you to be innovative. As making advanced designs doesn’t seem so scary anymore. Because with your pattern at hand, all you have to do is to study the design and figure out how to modify your patterns to get the design right.
And that’s it really. If you don’t stop me, I’ll just keep going because for me, pattern drafting is the truth. And it can do no wrong in my eyes. The only disadvantage I can even think of right now is that pattern drafting can be time consuming. Because you need to first make your patterns on paper, cut the paper out, place on your fabric and then cut it out. Which is really not all that stressful in my opinion.
Because with pattern drafting, just one basic pattern opens you up to a world of unlimited possibilities.
Which of these two cutting methods is your most preferred method of cutting garments? Is it pattern drafting or is it free hand cutting? Please type in the comments section. I would very much love to hear from you.
